Chalking up the Hampshire Downs

Exton to Buriton

We left you last week with a rant about the conservation of the chalk rivers of south and east England. It’s not often that one region of the UK has a majority share holding in a global ecosystem, but even this obligation does not always concentrate minds on the long view. The short term costs of treating threats such as water pollution can appear far more scary than the long term, and less tangible, benefits of a beautiful, clean, biodiverse, trout stream. These chalk rivers are capable of delivering oodles of human physical and mental well being, as well as significant contributions to the longevity of the planet. Conservation work is underway, however, the Meon Valley Partnership is a case in point. http://www.meonvalleypartnership.org.uk

Back at Exton it is Day 2 of our Hampshire Downs trek; the river Meon looks as stunning as it did the evening before, and the village itself amply fulfills the expectation of ridiculously pretty domestic, rural Hampshire. The pub looks just as shut, but that was our fault for arriving at silly times.

Easing our feet back into fresh socks and well-used boots, we now face 14 miles of extraordinary chalkland variety.  The map suggests considerably more woodland than Day 1, but only hints at a number of surprises which the walk has in store for us.

Old Winchester Hill was the first climb of the day and delivered bountiful rewards.  The National Nature Reserve was stunning in terms of habitat variety - wild flowers, scrub, grassland - and abundant butterflies and other invertebrates.  Above us, hang gliders caught and spilled the breeze and the rampart of the iron age hill fort appeared to encircle the hill top with a green choker.

The tapestry of agricultural landscapes which accompanies this section of the South Downs Way is exceptionally varied, but sometimes farming just will not pay the bills.  Business diversification may become essential, when attempting to create new revenue sources from the capital land resource.

Below Old Winchester Hill, we found some classic examples of new uses for old buildings, and new incomes for under-earning land - and water. 

A farmyard converted to art …

… and an old estate embracing fishing and glamping.

The second climb of the day, from Coombe Cross to the top of Wether Down (234 m), made Old Winchester Hill seem like a stroll in the park.  Here the atmosphere was very different.  This is Hang Gliding heaven and home to a variety of airborne gadgets and enthusiasts, as well as a trig point and a collection of communication masts and support gear. 

The track down is hard and stony, like so many sections of the South Downs Way, and deposits you in an ingongruous mix of former MOD land, redundant razor wire, a small holiday complex and a new estate of sumptuous residences, each set in a garden the size of a couple of paddocks.   Time to move on.

The Way now approaches Hyden Wood, a substantial mixed woodland with some spectacular beech stands which give respite to the eyes and a lift to the heart.  But once again it is hard on the feet (none of that soft, North Downs mud), and the next couple of miles are all forest track and country lane.  Clean for the boots but tough on the joints.

We also know what is coming next - the Queen Elizabeth Country Park, renowned for its gradients.  The Way spares us all but the flanks of Butser Hill (remember that top height of 271 m?) but the track surface and the view on the way up that flank, are somewhat unpreposessing.  Imagine the relief, therefore when we emerged at the top of a wonderful, grassy slope, which launched itself down the incline, calling out for us to follow.  Better on a mountain bike, of course, but wonderful on foot too.  Unfortunately, there is a tarmac snake lying in wait for us at the bottom of the valley.  Just as we had to negotiate the M3 on our way from Winchester, now we have cross the A3 to attain the final ascent of the day, through the Queen Elizabeth Forest. 

After the heady environment of the grassy slope, the search for the A3 underpass is a real anti-climax.  Downland turf turns to urban concrete and the noise levels are rising all the time.  We hurry through the underpass and enter the thickness of the forest, expecting an enveloping peace to fall at any moment.  But the Way lies parallel to the dual carriageway and the constant, yammering roar of massed internal combustion engines follows us for nearly a mile.

Finally the clamour fades as we begin the long plod up the tree-encrusted chalk of War Down, tired now and tripping on the flint and tree root track.  Cresting the last rise, we tip over the edge of the down and into the welcoming arms of a car park, complete with waiting back-up vehicle.  We don’t even have to walk off piste to reach Buriton village but are driven straight to the pub.

We have completed the 1987 extension of the South Downs, from Winchester to Buriton.  The next stage will take us to West Harting Down and into Sussex.  But we will keep that for another time.

After a long draft of St Clements, even the main occupant of the pub car park can raise a smile.